Tuesday, August 18, 2009

cambodia

We have spent the last few days touring the temples surrounding Angkor Wat. The temples were built 1100-600 years ago by the Khmer kingdom here in Cambodia. They were abandoned to the jungle as the Thais (or their ancestors) gained power. The temples were mostly built as Hindu temples and then converted to Buddhism as the latter religion was introduced into the area.

Today, many of the temples have been rediscovered by foreign explorers and restored by foreign archeologists working with the local Cambodians. Many of them are currently under reconstruction or have parts that are still bustling with men in hard hats. Almost all of them have signs advertising the foreign government that helped.

Perhaps it's because we have only seen this booming tourist town, but the kingdom of Angkor seems to be the major focal point of Khmer (as Cambodians are still called) culture and pride. The two big Cambodian beers are "Angkor" Beer and "Anchor" Beer. Angkor Wat ("Wat" means temple) is featured front and center on the Cambodian flag. Perhaps this is only natural given that few here are overly proud of their recent past.

This area around the temples is a study of tourism's economic impact. Far more than in the Philippines, there is basically a two-tiered service sector that accommodates both local and international visitors. The international runs on cash dollars and has mandated higher prices for things like transportation from the Thailand border and park entry fees. The town itself is bustling and there is a great restaurant and bar scene, filled with a mix of European and (a few) American backpackers, and other international tourists. The locals get by on Cambodian riel and and picnic on the lawns bordering Angkor Wat's majestic moat.

We walked through a local market this afternoon. It felt almost identical to one in the Philippines, complete with rambutans, many of the same vegetables, and one seller who didn't know enough English to say how much our Durian cost. Actually that would never happen in the Philippines. But it was nice to feel like we snuck out of our tourist hammock for a few moments.

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